Archives for March 2010 | NYC 2 LONDON

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The Portman

[Translate] A business doesn’t need to alienate patrons to evolve — after all, that Kentucky creationist museum brought in modern interactive displays without driving away their lifeblood, the stupid. Taking the pub in an inclusive new direction, The Portman, just opened in Marlyebone. Portman’s...

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Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 24-03-2010


Just opened… By some hot-shots…

Kenmare, just opened and is the combined effort of beloved chef Joey Campanaro (The Little Owl) and nightlife dons Paul Sevigny (Beatrice Inn) and Nur Khan (Rose Bar). In the stampede will be fashion show ponies rubbing tails with chowhounds over Campanaro’s Mediterranean comfort food — an insane veal cutlet, The Little Owl’s legendary sliders, and an asparagus gratin (mac ’n’ cheese, your days are numbered). Desserts like cannoli with pistachio gelato and chocolate-robiolina cheescake are toe-curlingly good. And your chances of scoring a seat are looking up.

Kenmare, 98 Kenmare Street, New York, NY +1-212-274-9898

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Fatty ‘Cue (Malaysian/American BBQ in Brooklyn – Any questions ?)

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Brooklyn, Food, New York City | Posted on 23-03-2010


Barbecue season, finally, officially smokes its way back into your life today with the Williamsburg opening of the two-years-in-the-making meat palace Fatty ‘Cue, Zak Pelaccio’s (Fatty Crab, Cabrito) Malaysian take on American BBQ.

First, take a moment to compose yourself and bask in the sauce-slathered glory of your previous BBQ conquests—the pork, the ribs, the sausage, the meat coma. Now take what you remember, toss in a little Southeast Asian intrigue, sprinkle a good amount of rare foreign spice and house it all in a three-story copper-and-wood-decked industrial palace, and you start to get an idea of what you’re in for when you make the BBQ pilgrimage to Brooklyn.

When you arrive from your journey—parched, fatigued, famished—you’ll find the simple meat and rum delicacies you were seeking out waiting for you: a few Dark & Stormys, some other spicy cocktail concoctions and a laundry list of tender, varied meat treats: Pork Spare Ribs, Lamb Shoulder, Red Curry Rubbed Duck and maybe a little Seafood Sausage.

But if you’re game for getting your hands dirty, you’ll want to order up a plate of the make-your-own buns, complete with a housemade bao bun, Wagyu brisket, chili jam, aioli and red onion.

Every pilgrimage should end with make-your-own buns.

Fatty ‘Cue, 91 S Sixth Street (at Berry Street), Brooklyn, NY 11211 +1-718-599-3090
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57 Napoli Pizza e Vino

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 22-03-2010


Set up in exposed brick & mural’d digs with a large wood-fired brick oven in the back, the former L’Asso/No. 28 pie man behind Napoli is specializing in Neapolitan-style ‘za, dropping homemade hand-pulled mozz all over pies like the San Daniel (prosciutto/arugula/Parm) and the Patata (potato/ricotta/walnuts/rosemary), plus chicken/eggplant Parm paninis, Italian-style flat bread, and the Lasagna di Carni, which played a mean third for the late-80s Oakland A’s before being baked into a pasta casserole.

57 Napoli Pizza e Vino, 120 E 57th Street (btw Park and Lexington Avenues), New York, NY 10022; +1-212-750-4586
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Tartinery (the house of tartine)

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 20-03-2010


Romance is easy.

There are ground rules. Methods. Well-established scientific schemes forged over years of intense fieldwork.

But the casual date remains a precarious and often poorly executed excursion.

Here to help keep things simple is Tartinery, a breezy French café opening tomorrow in Nolita.

Built by three French friends who noted a serious lack of authentic Parisian tartines (a sort of open-face sandwich served on razor-thin slices of French bread) in New York, Tartinery has all the ingredients for a Parisian evening of enchantment—charming, sharable French food, Serge Gainsbourg on the radio and a live tree in the middle of the dining room (proper foliage, of course, is crucial for any great date spot).

There are two floors: the food bar/open kitchen on the ground level good for sharing a tartine (go for the Rosbif, Foie Gras or lobster) and some bread (flown in daily from a bakery in Paris)—all prepped by chefs trained in France—while discussing your taste in berets.

But the downstairs is where you’ll decamp for cozier moments—every table is a two-top, save for the communal table (for those moments when you can’t bear to choose one dining partner). Or ask your garçon for a seat near the double-sided fireplace, a task made easier by the oversized numbers written on every table—be sure to request dix or onze (10 or 11) for maximum fire.

Or, as the French say, “en fuego.”

Tartinery, 209 Mulberry Street (at Spring Street), New York, NY 10012 +1-212-300-5838
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Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria (AKA Pastis Pizza)

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 19-03-2010


At the end of the day, you crave the simple things in life.

A room, bathed in dim light and buzzing with energy. A place where you can sit back and gorge on antipasti, prosciutto and pizza. Especially when that room comes from the man behind Balthazar, Pastis and Minetta Tavern. But you don’t need hype. You need facts, stats and solid, impregnable data.

Welcome to Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria, Keith McNally’s ode to Italy’s greatest export, now taking reservations for breakfast and lunch.

Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria, 282 BoweryStreet (at E Houston Street), New York, NY 10012 +1-212-226-1966

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Red Betty’s

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 18-03-2010


After a break up many people dream of moving away and getting a fresh start, but responsibilities inevitably relegate them to wallowing in their old apartment eating ice cream until the only Chunky Monkey left is the one holding the spoon. Deciding instead to change the surroundings they’re in, Red Betty’s.
After his business partner left and the original concern was closed down, the now-defunct Boucarou’s former chef/co-owner decided to stay in the same space and create new memories, revamping the bi-level, retractable-roofed husk with epic half-moon red banquettes, massive flowing red curtains, walls stacked with local art (overseen by an in-house curator), and the Romper Room: a semi-private lounge with beaded doorways in the rear, like some sort of freaky ex-girlfriend. The Franco-Senegalese menu starts with noshes like tuna & salmon tartare w/ spicy potato gaufrettes and Maine lobster/Kobe spring rolls, then moves to oceanic mains including vegetable stuffed Red Snapper w/ tomato sauce, pan seared jumbo scallops w/ sweet corn puree, and broiled sea bass w/ sliced cukes, hard boiled eggs, and black-eyed peas, who apparently didn’t realize just how hard boiled the eggs were. Glory’s attainable via the Kobe/bison blend Betty’s burger, topped shaved truffle, fried eggs, and melted foie, but beyond-the-bun options include a West African filet mignon pot pie w/ peanut butter sauce; grilled BBQ quail w/ potato galette and blackberry vinaigrette; and the rhubarb compote-/lime-cilantro salsa-sided Five Chinese Spiced Foie Gras, served over challah French toast that grants your breakfast-for-dinner gefilte wish.
Drinks’re designed by a former Spice Market mixologist, and the bar even gets its own small-bites menu, with everything from thyme-and-truffle dusted wings to sirloin sliders w/ homemade fries — order them all, and the only spooning you’ll get will taste like banana.
64 E. 1st Street (between 1st & 2nd Avenues), New York, NY +1-212-529-3262
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Satay Junction

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 17-03-2010


From the crew behind stalwart Brick Lane Curry House, Junction’s tiny, white brick & brightly colored art lined digs play backdrop to traditional Jakarta street fare like Indonesian fried rice, pan-seared flat noodles, and pork/chicken/lamb/fish satays, authentically served to go with peanut sauce and wrapped in newspaper shipped over from Indonesia, giving you a temporary excuse for not understanding Doonesbury.

28 Greenwich Avenue (at 10th Street), New York, NY 10014; +1-212-929-9400

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Torrisi (The original “Pig in a Hat”)

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 16-03-2010


After more than a month spent slinging lunchtime artisan sammies piled with housemade cold cuts & condiments, they’re revving the kitchen of their intimate, bottle- and sausage-lined SoHo deli digs to turn out dinner. The Café Boulud-groomed chef-owner’s planning a constantly rotating menu that includes house-made mozz da verdi, smoked sable crostinis w/ cod roe & bagel spice, heritage pork chops w/ vinegar peppers, and fresh made Ravioli Caruso, which…wears cool sunglasses?

250 Mulberry Street (at Prince Street), New York, NY +1-212-965-0955
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The Collective (of many things)

Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 15-03-2010


The Meatpacking District is a zone of incessant nightlife one-upmanship.

And while you’ve had an up-and-down, volatile, love-hate tryst with the cobblestoned precinct, somehow, against all odds, you still thirst for more.

Well, today we bring news of more: a new player called The Collective that’s anti-bottle service, covered in all manner of crazy pop art and brought to you by the folks behind STK and Bagatelle. And it’s opening Monday and taking reservations right now. Be afraid…

Picture the sort of giant art-gallery warehouse (the space is basically one big room with a bar at one end and tables throughout) that the Mad Hatter might curate, add some booze and Short-Rib Stroganoff, and you start to get the picture of what’s going on at the Collective. There’s art made out of slot machines, mechanical sculptures tacked to the ceiling, lighting that looks like robotic jellyfish and chairs made out of old street signs and streetlights (art imitating traffic).

It’s the sort of whirling dervish, high-energy spot you’ll drop in on when you’re looking to ramp up for a night out with some chicken and waffles (the Harlem, on the menu). Or where you’ll end up at 3:30am for some Blue Cheese Tater Tots and Disco Fries after a particularly harrowing night spent banquette surfing in the neighborhood.

Blue cheese tater tots make everything okay.

The Collective, 1 Little West 12th Street (at Ninth Ave), New York, NY 10011 +1-212-255-9717
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Posted by Burak Ipekci | Posted in Food, New York City | Posted on 14-03-2010


Since the dawn of time man has flaunted his conquests, whether by wearing scalps on a belt, or notching sexual conquests on a bedpost, which is difficult on many levels when you sleep on a futon. Letting you proudly display gustatory prowess, Lizarran, opening next week.
The first New York outpost of a globe-conquering Spanish concern, Lizarran’s set up shop in a long, sky-lit, exposed brick sleeve adorned with dark wood beams, striking B&W images of Iberian culture, and, surrounded by elevated copper booths and stools, a central “pintxos” bar: a traditional Catalonian stage for a staggering array of bite-size morsels held together by toothpicks, which’re kept at your table and eventually counted to determine your tab…so, screw mom, eat those toothpicks like you’ve always wanted.
Often mounted atop a small slice of freshly baked bread and made with imported DOP products whenever possible, the seasonally-changing 200+ dim sum-style noshes include standards like tortilla de patata (potato omelette) and gilda (an olive/anchovy/pepper spear), plus house specialties of quince paste y Manchego, smoked salmon stuffed with crab, and Emmental & chistorra, a pork sausage from the Basque region that’s the bomb. For healthier appetites, the kitchen’s pumping out tapas like Andalusian-style fried squid and scrambled eggs w/ cod & pepper, plus entrees from grilled salmon with Cabrales cheese sauce to rib eye w/ piquillo peppers & potatoes; there’re also three saffron paellas, including the chicken/ribs/shrimp/calamari “Mixta”, who you’ll beg to get you outta there when fullness hits you like an air conditioner.
Tipple-wise there’re Spanish brews and a mostly-Spanish wine list also stocked with pocket-friendly sangria and sherry, the mass drinking of which will ensure, futon or not, yours will stay intact.
45 Mercer Street (between Broome & Grand Street), New York, NY 10013
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